My office is a can be a chaotic area, as I have many activities going on in there. My day job responsibilities, decals and vinyl work, shipping out plans and other items, regular office duties, video editing, etc etc. It is a place where a lot of time is spent with many tools, furniture, and equipment to get these tasks done in an efficient and orderly fashion. My office is a standard 12 x 12 bedroom that was converted. Space is limited, especially wall space. I build a cabinet to bring wall storage to the max!
This tandem door cabinet is amazing. It features two sets of special hinges from Rockler.com that allows two doors to be inset into the cabinet. I put Kaizen foam on the door front to utilize this space. I debated using peg board but for the office application I would get more storage using the Kaizen foam. Peg board would be ideal for shop, garage, or even in a shed application.
I used 3/4″ oak plywood for the casework, 3/4″ oak hardwood for the face-frames, edge-banding, and door’s rails and stiles, and I used 1/4″ oak plywood for the door panels. The primary construction method was pocket holes. I wanted to construct this cabinet with straight dimensions so general joinery methods could be used. No fancy joints needed! The builder could use dominos, dowels, biscuits, or regular butt joints with screws or brads!
I started out by cutting all the parts for the casework and then drilled the pocket holes in the correct locations. I glued the assembly up with the help of a few clamps. I applied glue and drove in the pocket screws. The clamps helps keep the parts from shifting when driving the pocket screws. I always seem to notice parts shift if they are not properly secured.
Once the case was assembled, I painted the inside of the cabinet with black paint. Then I could apply the 3/4″ hardwood face-frame material. I simply applied glue and then used my 23-gauge pinner to hold the material in place until the glue dried.
After the face-frame was applied, I cut and edge-banded two pieces for the top and bottom. These parts would cover the plywood edges and the pocket holes. This added a simple decorative element to the project.
I made the doors out of 3/4″ oak hardwood. The rails and stiles were 2″ wide and since I was planning on using Kaizen foam, I wanted the door panel to be as far back as possible. I used a rabbit bit in the router table to make a recess for a 1/4″ oak plywood panel.
The tandem door hinges by Rockler are the heart and soul of this project. Without these hinges, the design process would be much more difficult. The directions were fantastic and the included template made layout very easy!
To install the hinges, start by placing the cabinet leaf template in the correct position and mark the cross-hairs with an awl. I then used these positions to guide my drill bit as I drilled a pilot hole for the screws. Install the hinge the included six screws. Next, we need to attach the door leaf to the door. Use the template to mark the positions with an awl. Use a drill to complete a pilot hole in the door and secure the door leafs with the included 3 screws. Each door will get two leafs.
Once the hinges were installed, I need to install the catch plate on the case and the plastic detents on the door. Simply place the catch plate on the bottom of the cabinet, give it a few taps from a hammer and then drill out the dimple marks with a 1/2″ forsner bit. Then, secure the catch plate with the included 2 screws. After the catch plate is installed, close the doors and mark the center of the crater, this will be where the plastic detent will be placed on the door. Press the detent into position on the bottom of the door.
After everything is complete. I finished the cabinets with 2-3 coats of Danish Oil. This finish is quickly becoming my favorite.
I installed the Kaizen foam as I did previously in this VIDEO and put a light on the bottom that could illuminate my work surface.